The versatile master..from Classical to Modern….Guy Savoy***//Paris

Guy Savoy

Big warning for this post…….the famous sacred chef Guy Savoy will transport you into one of the best table on earth. Here is just PERFECTION. Full stop.

This is not a national choice at all or blue-white-red french preference, but I honestly believe this master chef his the most current talented chef on earth and I’ve ever had to experience the food.

When you arrive at Guy Savoy, you feel first of all like if you enter the Guggenheim or the Tate modern combine with the Louvre, this is a sumptuous combination of Modern art and classical atmosphere. Just sumptuous and relaxing. I can bizarrely remember the weird presence of “burgundy red” all around me during diner. Sometime your memory can be attracted by something you don’t really notice at first instance, however it stays in your mind for life. I’ve to say, this moment are in you memory forever and at Guy Savoy, i’ve to confess, this is definitely something I’ll remember.

Guy Savoy is for me a modern “designer” of cooking Art. He is able to surprise you at any courses. We talked about the Chiberta in another post, and I’ve been so surprised by the combination of food, than if you go the main Guy Savoy restaurant you’ll just be pleased and fulfilled.

We – as usual!! – took the tasting menu which includes many of the main chef specialities. I’ll there develop The Oysters “à la nage” and the Truffle soup.

This is really bizarre, but even if I do remember that this diner was overall just perfect, surprisingly I do remember only those two courses and one “mise en bouche”. I think this is coming more from the situation and the reaction of the people, on top of the quality of the courses.

I’ll not be too long on the “mise en bouche” but I had to mention it to you as it was just surprising. It’s almost difficult to describe it. As far as my memory goes, I do remember a floating small ball made of foie-gras in a conic glass the size of a shot glass. The ball was swimming in a juice made of truffle, foie-gras and veal stock. Simple, but just totally “superb”. The foie-gras was suddenly revealed to his entire nature by the veal reduction (cold of course) and the light flavor of truffle. Genius, light and Art. Well done for an introduction.

Then we move to the first course…speciality of Mister G Savoy. The Oysters “à la nage”.

Oysters "a la nage"

I’ve to explain exactly what means oysters “a la nage”. This is basically a transition between a raw oyster and a nice reduction of veal and the natural jelly out of it. I think at this stage I almost need to explain the course by using the recipe. Cook slowly one veal trotter – i know some people at this stage will just stop reading – with some nice carrots and leak. After cooking leave the juice to stabilise and turn into a jelly in the fridge.

Now let’s imagine the water from the oyster – full of iodine – being mixed with this nice natural jelly and some cream fresh mixed beforehand with some oysters crushed!!! The full oysters are just totally recomposed in the shell itself, but they just lie down on a nice bed of cream, lemon and spinach purée. The serving is usually 4 per person (“a la carte”, but only one for the tasting menu!!! otherwise you’ll not survive). On top of each oysters the chef spreads some of this iodine and veal jelly crushed and covered with some chives meticulously chopped to the thinnest ever possible level. The course is served literally very cold and you just have to eat the oysters as normal, without any need of a fork (even if you can notice one on the picture aside!!). Now I can tell you about the sensation all about sweetness and lightness and above all freshness. All at the same time reveal to you….veal, iodine, lemon, cream…..just sumptuous….

At this stage, I think the entire table was just recognizing some uplifting level in Guy Savoy and we were all just waiting for the second surprise.

One of the biggest force of mister Savoy is probably to have no real classification between the classical cooking and the modern european or any new funky “fusion” style. He is just feeling at ease in any cooking fashion. And this is exactly where you can recognize a “grand chef”. Savoy can jump from preparing the best “velouté Dubarry” you’ll ever have in your life to the most fusion exquisite “Truffle Vietnamese Nem” you’ll ever eat. The second Savoy’s speciality we had is the perfect demonstration of what I just suggested. As per the menu (still actual) the dish is simply an Artichoke Soup with Black Truffles, Brioche with Mushrooms and Truffles (fr : Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noire, Brioche Feuilletee aux Champignons et Truffes)

This is one of the numerous specials from the sacred chef.

I do remember, just after having this incredible “farandole” of oyster, presented in a very modern style plates and decoration, jumping into a very middle-age style. Unbelievable, here comes the copper sauce pan and the classical soup vintage bowl. Very disturbing, as some people could find it very tacky, however we were all very suspicious at this stage, we were just waiting for what will happen next.

Then the waiters arrive with some simple dressed plates with some brioche made with mushroom and truffle, hidden in some nice proper cotton napkins. The flavor of fresh brioche started to spread in the dinning room like a fresh bakery perfume of Paris street early in the morning. Yummy. I’ve to say, usually you never remember the full list of the menu when you go for the tasting menu, the list is too long and you just don’t care as you can’t choose anything….you just eat (lol).

Burgundy wood atmosphere

So at this stage the surprise is total and intact. One of the sous-chef (unfortunately not mister Savoy himself – he will arrive later) arrives with this massive casserole, in copper again, and started to fill each of our soup bowls. Amazing theatrical scenario, totally unexpected. Smiles on the faces, questioning sometime, we were all trembling on our chairs to taste the light green elixir.

Here we come, the sous-chef disappear, and then in a very relaxed manner the head waiter just said…..”enjoy it like you want, crush the brioche if you want, spread it, eat separately, ……oh well…..do like you prefer…feel at home”….friendly and so true. How would you be complicated for a soup? never, just enjoy. I remember some very thin slices of aged parmesan on the side as well, some raw crystal salt,…..mix and enjoy. This is your soup and you appreciate the way you want.

But first of all, just taste it…..UNBELIEVABLE.

A stunning flavor of Artichokes, but not just the heart of it, same as at another place I’ve went to recently, the soup was made of the bottom of the artichokes leafs. This part when you eat the leafs (either with vinegar or mayonnaise) which is more bitter than the heart. This is it, the soup is a revelation of work, the chef must have been grating the leafs of all the artichokes to gain this amazing and so particular flavor. And then the second essence comes, the truffles, not too strong….not to fade. Just perfect. A note of cream of course. A stock of veal or chicken on the background to link the texture and the ingredients. An ACE, just spot on and so simple in a way.

And then you do what you want….spread the brioche, …..eat it separatly….it’s almost like a game. The brioche, made with mushroom, was adding a buttery taste in the soup…I try with and without….totally different, but in each cases, just wicked. A second serving of the soup is offered in the tasting menu, just like for the a la carte option. I did take advantage of the second serving this time, as any of the people on the table.

Another restaurant, another memories……

This is really weird, when people ask me which restaurant is you best experience, I’m always coming back to Guy Savoy. I would honesty would like to work one day with him and experience the way he is creating. Every dish sounds like a pure piece of Art. He would remind me some singers, comfortable with singing Jazz, Pop or Rap. Guy Savoy is part of this exclusive and restricted group of chef in the world to be able to switch from a style to another. And I’ve to say, by choosing the tasting menu, you just can confirm this. In somewhat 8 courses, you jump from classical to modern in a very nice way. We had the chance to see mister G Savoy coming to the table at the end, maybe to congratulate us for having finished the full list of courses, but certainly to get some “bravo” from the table. No default, no issues, no false note…..just PERFECTION.

Front door Guy Savoy - Paris

I will love to go back again there…..

Just one big issue nowadays. G Savoy has become incredibly over priced and the current tasting menu is nearly 300 € per person without wine!!! maybe an extravaganza at this price. I’m not sure I’m supporting this kind of prices, even if the result is awesome. One good thing to notice, maybe the crisis effect impact, G Savoy is suggesting for Lunchtime or after 10 pm from the 15th of July to the 15th of September a 5 Courses with 5 vines for 130 €….great value. I’ll go next time I’m in Paris. For sure.

My ratings :

Food = 9/10
Decoration/Ambiance = 8/10
Service = 9/10
Noise = 9/10

Guy Savoy Restaurant

Rue Troyon

75017 Paris, France

01 43 80 40 61

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  1. #1 by S Lloyd on 03/12/2010 - 19:30

    I know GS well. I a originally from Paris and used to dine there approx once every 3 months. Loved the great care they have for their patrons, the ambience.

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